The following is a description of the native wildflowers I planted from seed this winter.  To plant them I simply scattered them in snow on January 24, 2009 and scuffed some snow on top of them.  The snow was about 2” deep and has lasted 4 days so far.  Most of these plants are considered deer and rabbit resistant.  We shall see.  If you received seeds from me planting instructions and package lists follow the wildflower descriptions below.

Agastache rupestris, Sunset Hyssop

This is a yellow orange flower plant with a spicy fragrance that attracts hummingbirds. Flowers are trumpet like and bloom from July to August on tall stalks.  It is considered deer and rabbit resistant. Give it full sun and a dryer environment once it is established. Average height is 12-36”. 

 

 

Aster laevis, Smooth Aster

Smooth aster is purple flowering perennial, 12-36” tall that blooms September through October. It requires moisture and is considered deer and rabbit resistant. Give it full sun and supplemental irrigation.

Balsamorhiza sagittata, Arrowleaf Balsamroot

Arrowleaf Balsamroot is a yellow flowering perennial with arrow shaped leaves and daisy like flowers that blooms in the spring. It grows 12-24” tall and typically blooms April through June.  Give it full sun and a dryer environment once it is established. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Calylophus hartwegii, Primrose

This Primrose will grow 2-6” tall producing large yellow flowers throughout the summer.  It develops a large underground tuber and is considered deer resistant.  Give it full sun and a dry environment once it is established.

 

 

Delphinium andersonii, Andersons Larkspur

Western Larkspur can grow to 8-24” tall, producing white to deep blue flowers April through June.  It is poisonous so be careful with livestock.  It prefers full sun.

 

 

 

 

Gaillardia artistata, Blanketflower

This perennial grows 12-24” tall with yellow radial flowers with a red center in July and August.  It is considered deer and rabbit resistant.  Plant it in full sun with little irrigation once it is established. 

 

 

Geranium viscosissimum, Sticky Geranium

Sticky geranium grows 8-24” tall with pink to purple blooms from June to July.  Plant in full sun to part shade and provide some irrigation. Considered deer and rabbit resistant by some sources but another source says it is a favorite of elk and moose. 

 

 

Helenium hoopsii, Helen’s Sneezeweed, Orange Mountain Daisy

Helen’s Sneezeweed produces large, brilliant orange blooms in July and August, growing 12-24” tall. Give it partial shade to full sun and a dry to moist environment.  This plant is poisonous to livestock but the rabbits here seem to like it.

 

Helianthus pumilus, Foothills Sunflower

This sunflower grows 18-32” tall with yellow flowers in June and July. Plant in full sun with a little additional moisture. Considered deer and rabbit resistant.  

Penstemon palmeri, Palmers Penstemon

This Penstemon is pink flowering with gray leaves blooming from March through October.  It can reach about 20-56” tall (hard to believe). Plant it in full sun and once established do not give it much water. Considered rabbit resistant but not deer resistant. 

 

 

Penstemon strictus, Rocky Mountain Penstemon

Rocky Mountain Penstemon is a semi-evergreen perennial with bluish purple flowers clustered mid to late summer. It can grown 8-30” tall. Plant in full sun with additional water.  Considered deer (questionable) and rabbit resistant. 

 

 

 

 

Penstemon virens, Blue Mist Penstemon

Blue mist Penstemon blooms blue, lavender-throated flowers above green leaves in July and August.  Plant in full sun with additional water. It is low growing to about 8” tall and evergreen.  Considered rabbit resistant but not deer resistant.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you received native wildflower seeds in the mail from me, the following is information on planting and package contents.

General Planting Instructions: 

·        Plant now. 

·        It is best to plant just before or during a snow. If planting in snow simply broadcast the seeds in the snow and spread some additional snow on top of the seed. After snow melts you can place a light covering of mulch over the area.

·        If planting in soil, rough the soil with a rake to create furrows approximately 1/4 inch deep.  Sprinkle seeds over the area. Rake soil over the seeds and gently compact the soil. Lightly mulch the area 1/8” deep at the most.  Well decomposed compost is very good mulch. Water the soil well.

·        Continue to water the soil lightly when there is no snow keeping it moist until the seedlings have at least 2 sets of leaves.  You may need to do this for 4-6 weeks.  No need to water if seeds are covered with snow or ground is frozen.

·        When the plants have 2 sets of leaves water deeply and less frequently to promote deep root growth, approximately 1-2 inches every week or two.  Continue to water at this rate for the first year.

·        Once plants are established, typically the second or third year, water deeply once or twice a month for “A” plants and water deeply weekly for “B” plants.  The additional water for the dryer plants will help the plants bloom more and for longer than they would without water.  It will also help plants spread and grow from seeds.

 

If you have received these seeds in the mail from me, please add a comment telling me:

1.   When you planted the seeds: date, and comments such as did it snow shortly after planting?

2.   How you planted the seeds: in the ground, in pots… Did you mulch? With what?

3.   How often you watered the seeds: every other day/weekly or maybe after the snow melted….

4.   When the first leaves appeared: date…

5.   When the first bloom(s) appeared: date…

6.   If deer or rabbits ate them, or maybe you caged them…

7.   Did they return the following year?

Feel free to add comments throughout the year.  I hope to share everyone’s results in a follow-up entry. You can upload photos of your plants if you would like.  It would be great to see how everyone does. 

Packet A

In theory these plants will need very little to no additional irrigation after established.  However, if you water them deeply once a month, they will bloom longer and become dormant later.  Also, since we typically plant high desert plants closer than they would exist in a natural system, it is important to give them some supplemental water.

 

Agastache rupestris, Sunset Hyssop

Balsamorhiza sagittata, Arrowleaf Balsamroot

Calylophus hartwegii, Primrose

Gaillardia artistata, Blanketflower

Helenium hoopsii, Helen’s Sneezeweed

Mirabilis multiflora, Wild Four O’clock 

 

Packet B

In general these plants will all need additional irrigation after established.  Water deeply 2-3 times a month spring through summer.

 

Aster laevis, Smooth Aster

Delphinium andersonii, Anderson Larkspur

Helianthus pumilus, Foothills Sunflower

Geranium viscosissimum, Sticky Geranium

Penstemon palmeri, Palmers Penstemon

Penstemon strictus, Rocky Mountain Penstemon

Penstemon virens, Blue Mist Penstemon

To leave your comment: log in and register.  You will receive a password via email.  Use that to leave your comment.  I can’t wait to hear from you!

Native Plant List is now available click here.

People have really caught onto the benefits and beauty of gardening with native plants.  Many of my clients are asking for “carefree” “low water use” native plants in their landscapes.  Others are looking to reclaim disturbed or exotic plantings with native trees, shrubs, forbs, and grasses.  And what is more exciting is that people really appreciate the beauty of the high desert.  They want these plants closer to their homes, not simply at the outer edges of their gardens as they have in the past. The high desert is a stunning environment.  

In my garden, I am exploring different ways to enhance the undisturbed native environment.  I want to make it look more like a “garden”, drawing guests through a garden walk rather than simply passing by a path in the sagebrush.   So far I am exploring select native plantings, gravel walks, boulders placement, snags, and garden structures. Ultimately, I hope to add a few “ooohh” inspiring items in select locations.

So how would you like to garden with native plants?  There are several ways you can enjoy the beauty and ease of native plants in your garden.   You can mimic the more traditional lush plantings by selecting native trees, shrubs, and perennials, then complimenting them with low water lawn grasses.  In this scenario, you would plant the plants closer together so that their foliage will touch at mature size.  Keep lawn, paths, and planting bed edges manicured.  Mulching will help to refine the look.  Or, you can plant native plants in a looser, more open manner mimicking our natural environment, its plant patterns and densities.  This natural style allows for some soil and plant debris to be visible.  You can also simply replace some of your exotic plants or fill in gaps with native plants for a mixed style garden.  Just be sure to match water requirements and sun exposure.

You can get started by finding some photographs of gardens you like.  Your photographs will reflect your style.  If you want a truly natural environment, take a photograph of an area you especially like on your next hike.  Once you’ve collected your photographs, examine each for elements that you can apply to your property.  Do a simple concept sketch of your property drawing the footprint of your home, existing paths, patios, and planting beds, as well as the new paths, patios, planting beds, and other desired elements that you would like to add.  Consider which areas on your concept plan that you would like to look like your garden photographs.  Determine the sun exposure of those areas and write notes like “full sun” or “shade” on you concept plan.  Next consider which native plants could replace those in the photographs.  Do you want to replace a tea rose in the photograph with a native rose, or a native currant shrub?  You can continue to go through your concept plan and photographs selecting native plants that will grow well in the areas on your plan.  Select native plants that will offer similar qualities as the plants in your photographs.  Before you know it you’ll have a native plant list to take with you to the nursery.

At the nursery be sure to ask how much water the plant is currently receiving. Nursery plants are often watered every day and will need to be watered every day in your garden until they are settled in from the move.   Then continue watering as you would any garden plant for the first few years.  The nursery plants have grown their foliage mass based on a steady supply of water and if you back it off now, you will have plant die back. Water your native perennials at regular garden levels for the first 2 years, and then you can drop it to twice a month or less.  Water trees and shrubs at regular garden levels for the first 2 to 3 years, then deeply once or twice a month depending on the species.  Don’t forget to water all of your garden plants every 3-6 weeks in the winter when the ground will take the water.  You will notice a big difference in the spring if you water in this manner. Your plants will be healthier and look better than if they were left alone.  The exceptions to this watering method are the really dry plants like sagebrush and Oregon sunshine.  Many of the dry natives do not need any supplemental water.  They will only need a little water at first to settle them in.

I like to water my native perennials and grasses once or twice a month through the growing season to prolong their blooms and green color.  Many natives will go dormant toward the late summer if they do not receive supplemental irrigation. You can decide whether to prolong their season with irrigation or not.  It really depends on whether you want a lusher garden or strictly dry native garden.  

Also, ask the nursery people where the plant came from.  If the plant came from a wetter or higher elevation than where you are going to plant it, you may need to baby it for awhile.  Select plants that were grown in an environment similar to your garden.  They will have an easier transition and will be better adapted to those conditions.

When planting native plants do add compost and for pants that like dry rocky soils, add gravely soil too.   Most natives won’t need fertilizer, but add some mycorrhizae fungi in the planting hole.  Mycorrhizae fungus is a beneficial fungus that infects a plant’s roots and increases its ability to take up nutrients.  Try to get it to touch the plant’s roots.

I find it very satisfying to plant with natives. They are easy to plant, adapt well, and are nicely suited to our environment both physically and visually. But, I do wish the rabbits and deer didn’t feel the same way.  It seems the rabbits love a new plant as much as we do and will eat it to the ground repeatedly until is gone.  Funny though, they don’t eat the exact same plant species that has been there a few years.  My theory is that the new plant is very tender and tasty without any dried or rough parts.  Particularly grasses.  Once a plant winters over, they don’t seem to have the same attraction.  My new strategy is to cage the plant the first year and spray it with pepper.  Hopefully this will deter the rabbits and deer long enough for the plant to get established. 

I hope you enjoy gardening with native plants as much as I do.  To help you get started, I’ve developed what I consider a comprehensive native plant list for our area. You can find in on my blog.  It will continue to evolve with more comments and guidance as I learn more.  Be well and enjoy the dirt!